I joke, perhaps not entirely incorrectly, that the Grand Canyon is “just a big hole in the ground.” It’s big, that’s for sure, and it is, technically, a hole in the ground. But it’s so much more than that, of course. Arizona’s Grand Canyon defies any rational description, mostly because its size and scale are almost beyond comprehension. However. It is entirely possible to focus on small areas of it, and that’s precisely what we’ll do. Let’s dive into the Grand Canyon National Park’s North Rim and see where our adventure leads us.
In broad, general terms, we can divide the Grand Canyon into several areas: the South Rim, the East Rim, and the North Rim. The South Rim is readily accessible and is replete with all the infrastructure you can ask for. It’s a relatively short drive from Flagstaff and an even shorter drive from Williams. It has camping, plenty of hotels, miles upon miles of roads, a shuttle service, train service, restaurants, and more. Oh, and importantly, it has views of the canyon that are beyond extraordinary. I guess that part is important, too.
Because of this, and entirely unsurprisingly, it sees a staggering number of visitors. During the peak season in the summer months, it is, to say the least, crowded. There are traffic jams and long lines everywhere, and you need to weave your way through throngs of people to even catch a glimpse of the namesake attraction. Even in the winter months, you can find crowds, although, to be fair, it isn’t quite so bad. I’ve been there in the bone-chilling middle of winter and had to look for space to create the photograph I wanted. For me, someone who enjoys the solicitude and silence of the untamed wilderness, this is not an experience I relish, so I seldom visit the South Rim.
Luckily, the North Rim is the opposite experience in every single way.
Separated by only a couple of miles as the crow files, it is like entering an entirely different world. To begin with, access is only possible in the summer months. For starters, it is close to nowhere, so it is a long journey any way you look at it. That single fact means that the number of visitors is a mere fraction of those who are going to the South Rim. Why drive hundreds of miles when you can drive only a few? After all, the views are similar enough that most people will go for the easy way. In the winter, the heavy snow and low visitation mean that it is easier, and safer, to close this part of the National Park than to keep it open. So, it closes for the winter, leaving only a short window to enjoy it.
Moreover, and just as importantly, the infrastructure is not nearly developed, which suits me perfectly fine. There is a single hotel and a few campgrounds. There are only a couple of restaurants. You can’t hope on a train or shuttle, and there is only a single paved road in. Even cell phone service is spotty. It is a wholly different world.
And the views are even more spectacular here. But don’t tell anyone!
A note on access: I make it sound like there is only one way, period, into the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. This is partially correct: there is one paved way in. But there are several dirt roads that go into the North Rim, including some very remote areas. The Kaibab National Forest surrounds the National Park, and the border between the two is fluid in the more remote areas. Some forest roads end up in the park; others do not. Some are easy to navigate; even with a regular passenger car, most are not. And some are difficult roads, even for well-equipped 4x4s. Regardless, all the roads are impassible during the winter months, and sometimes from the fall through the spring. I've explored a great many of these out-of-way roads, and we'll revisit some stunning viewpoints in the future.
To be fair, the South Rim offers a fantastic experience, and I do enjoy being there. Occasionally, it is better to be able to reach a place quickly without having to go hundreds of miles out of your way. Yes, you can work around the crowds, and yes, you can create stunning photographs. I don’t want you to think I don’t like the South Rim. I do, and very much. But for today, we’re going to focus on the North Rim and the very different experience it offers.
I adore the vibe here. Everything feels more laid-back and serene. Sure, there are other visitors here, but there aren’t that many. There is also a stronger sense of camaraderie here, too. It’s like we all know that just a few miles to the south of us, there are hordes of people, all clamoring to see the view. Instead, those of us spending time at the North Rim can spread out, giving each of us the feeling that we are alone at the Grand Canyon. That sense of being by myself with the biggest hole on the planet really, and I mean really, puts it all in perspective. The Grand Canyon seems even bigger than it is. It goes on forever, stretching before the ends of the earth, and I feel as if I am viewing infinity by myself.
The feelings are that strong.
OK. I can hear you clearly. I’ve gone on long enough with the words. Let’s see some photographs. Who am I to disagree? Let’s get to those!
We’re going to two fantastic locations that are along a road that is open even less than the North Rim. Meaning, the opportunity window is even shorter. That, to me, makes these photographs even more special.
The first place is Imperial Point at sunrise. It’s impressive, isn’t it? The sun peaks over the distant horizon and spreads its rays throughout the canyon. There’s a rock outcropping that catches rays, which forms the focal point of Imperial Sunrise. The gently curving walls accent the rock, and the entirety of the canyon stretches beyond it. To me, I can still feel the magic of the moment as the canyon comes to life with color and vibrancy, and the ethereal hues of color spring from the walls.
It is that daybreak moment that threatens to take your breath away and keep it. I especially adore sunrises and sunsets because of their fleeting nature of them. The sun is in the best position for only the briefest of all moments, so one needs to be quick to create the perfect photograph. Blink, and the opportunity is gone. And once the sun fully breaks the horizon and begins its daily trek into the heavens, the scene is gone. The canyon colors quickly fade into the harsh and unrelenting glare of the sun. You have to squint to make out even the largest details.
To create Imperial Sunrise, however, I needed to position myself perfectly. Although there is a handy viewpoint, I found it limiting, and I couldn’t get the exact feeling I wanted. So, I improvised, and found a much better position for myself. Getting there before the sun came up, meaning it was dark, was more challenging than I cared for, and a single slip meant disastrous consequences, but such is the price of the photograph. At least it was easy to get back to safety once the sun came up!
The second place we’re going to visit is Cape Royal and the stunning rock formation called Wotan’s Throne. I’ve become utterly transfixed by Wotan’s Throne recently. There’s something about how it thrusts up from the canyon floor and becomes a singular presence—the star of the show, as it were—that holds my attention. Somehow, it manages to become more interesting than the canyon it resides in, a feat that is difficult to accomplish.
Wotan Sunset shows the formation’s detail during a particularly intriguing sunset. The day had been cloudy, with intermittent thunderstorms. I made this photograph at the height of monsoon season, so storms were expected and welcomed. As fate would have it, on this particular day, the sky began to clear to the west, allowing the sun to provide a light show all its own. I adore the deep reds that transition to purple here; a momentary, and lucky, break in the clouds let the sun through to light up the walls of Wotan’s Throne.
To me, this is the very best view anywhere on the North Rim.
And remember all the set-up I did regarding how few people are here? I was almost alone this evening. The feeling of solitude, while standing over magnificence, was overpowering as the sunset created this opportunity, just for me, and me alone. The world around me ceased to exist, save for Wotan’s Throne, a canyon stretching forever beyond, and a sunset of fire.
However, the most phenomenal photograph is yet to come.
I spent quite a while at Cape Royal and came back to it time and again to watch both sunrise and sunset. Despite the fiery beauty of Wotan Sunset, there is another sunset I like even better, and it is my favorite photograph from the North Rim: Royal Sunset.
This late summer day followed the typical monsoon pattern. Clear skies in the morning, followed by quickly growing rain and thunderstorms, then a slow clearing toward evening. The only question was: would the sky be clear enough, but not too much, to allow me to create the photograph I envisioned? The answer is a resounding yes.
Royal Sunset features Wotan’s Throne, of course, but I opted for a wider panoramic perspective to help provide the feeling of scale. I was fortunate to experience another extraordinary sunset display. This sunset wasn’t quite as fiery red, but had plenty of purples and pinkish hues in it, which I find even more attractive. There was a clear break to the west, allowing me to create the sun flare. Light spills onto Wotan’s Throne and the canyon walls, lighting them with the last gentle brush from a turbulent day. The Snake River winds through the Grand Canyon more than a mile below, a thin thread of life-giving water in the harsh environment.
I perched, above it all, my toes a mere six inches from a mile-long drop into oblivion, held my breath, and created this consummate photograph. I wanted to provide the feeling of being over the edge. The only way to accomplish that was by being there on the edge; it is a nerve-wracking experience, and you need to remain constantly vigilant about where your feet are at all times. It is all too easy to be caught up in the moment, take a step forward, and, well, yeah.
Like all sunsets, the perfect moment was fleeting, and the shadows swept over the canyon walls, plunging everything into the darkness of night. That’s OK, though. I had completed my goal, and Royal Sunset remains one of my all-time favorite photographs.
It is never easy for me to depart the North Rim. In fact, the only way I do so is by knowing that I’ll be back there soon. Although it faded in my rearview mirror, it remains front and center in my thoughts, and I can’t wait to adventure there again.
Bring the North Rim Adventure Home
You can purchase Royal Sunset and always enjoy the fantastic experience of Grand Canyon National Park’s North Rim. Presented in an unusual aspect ratio, this stunning presentation looks utterly fantastic. I can make this in almost any size to accommodate your exact needs–contact me for more details. Royal Sunset looks especially awe-inspiring in larger sizes.
I can also create bespoke versions of Imperial Sunrise and Wotan’s Sunset for you, and like Royal Sunset, they truly begin to shine in larger sizes. With a custom-made piece, you will have a one-of-a-kind piece of stunning artwork made specifically for you.